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COMPLICATIONS
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GLASHÜTTE
PanoTourbillon XL
This
new treasure from Glashütte Original catches the observer's eye
with its 42mm case size and the modernly arranged dial of the PanoTourbillon
XL. The lavishly designed white gold dial is visually divided in
two halves that contrast in black and silver while the zones for
the various displays are based on the design of the new Pano XL
line. The filigreed flying one-minute tourbillon is located in the
upper dial half, which is silver. The lower half is dominated by
the hour and minute display with its silver-colored Arabic numeral
markers against a deep black galvanized background.
The PanoTourbillon XL is powered by the very fine manufacture movement
Calibre 41-02. Thus, the PanoTourbillon XL takes its place among
the great complications of fine German watchmaking by Glashütte
Original.
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FRANCK
MULLER
Aeternitas Mega
While
the basic movement of Aeternitas remains the same, the novelty of
this year in Franck Muller Aeternitas Mega is the addition of a
Grande and Petite Sonnerie (Grand-strike) Minute Repeater, Westminster
Carillon. The movement is equipped with a double barrel: the first
barrel guarantees a power reserve of about 4 days; the second barrel
provides energy for the Sonnerie. It has a grand tourbillon with
a balance wheel with adjustment screws in platinum and no index.
The Grande Sonnerie (Grand-strike) strikes the hours and the quarters
automatically. The distinctive feature is that it chimes the same
notes as the clock tower of the Westminster cathedral. The Petite
Sonnerie is programmed by a push-piece placed at 2 o'clock and it
is displayed on the dial by a small hand. It only strikes the hours
and the quarters (without repeating the hours at each quarter).
The Minute Repeater is activated on request by pressing a push-piece
placed at 10 o'clock. It strikes the hours, the number of quarters
and the minutes.
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ZENITH
Grande Class Open Tourbillon
A
star irradiates the dial, an unlikely divine intervention in an
orderly world: an unusual design for an exceptional calibre with
a tourbillon for the El Primero chronograph. Housing the fastest
tourbillon in the world, the 4035 movement chronograph beating at
a rhythm of 36,000 vibrations per hour, has a cage surrounded by
a rotating date disk and in the centre the Zenith star rules supreme.
The 45mm rose gold case has a transparent sapphire case back and
is water resistant upto 50 metres. The solid gold dial has handmade
"Grain d'orge" guilloché pattern with applied indexes and counters
in solid gold. The watch has a handmade black alligator leather
strap lined with silky Alzavel calfskin and 18-carat rose gold Grande
Class triple folding buckle stamped with Zenith star on the cap.
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AUDEMARS
PIGUET
Millenary watch with deadbeat seconds
To
highlight its new escapement, Audemars Piguet has created a watch
featuring an astonishing design with a highly contemporary architecture.
This daring approach begins with the beautifully proportioned pink
gold oval Millenary case contrasted with the brushed middle and
the polished bezel. Nonetheless, the main surprise stems from the
entirely open dial with its off-centred displays. With its regulating
organ drawing all eyes to 9 o'clock, the timepiece provides a live
lesson in mechanical watchmaking. The star of the show is the new
escapement with the sharp edges of the wheel, its guard-pin and
the unusual shape of its ruby pallet-stones.
The off-centred subdial at 7 o'clock includes a feature known as
"deadbeat seconds", an independent display which jumps once a second
without disturbing the running of the watch.
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DEWITT
Tourbillon à Force Constante
The
barrel spring, between the moment when it is wound and the end of
its power reserve, delivers a diminishing flow of energy as it winds
down. This difference affects the regularity of the watch rate,
i.e. its accuracy. The solution consists in incorporating an additional
device whose purpose is to replace a motive power which may be variable
or irregular by another perfectly constant force, regardless of
the degree of winding of the barrel.
The ingenious mechanism, the patented DW 8003 mechanical hand wound
calibre, of the Tourbillon à Force Constante DeWitt, is protected
by a case with a 43 mm diameter with bezel and middle parts sculpted
with the "Imperial Columns" exclusive to the brand, fashioned in
white or rose gold and a matching dial in hand engine-turned gold
bearing a discreet and exclusive motif: the DeWitt symbol. Finely
cut out, the 18 carat gold plaque reveals the mechanism through
two unusual openings, one at 8 o'clock for the constant force device
and the other at 5 o'clock for the tourbillon cage, while the time
is read on an axis centred on the upper half. The dial features
18 carat gold hands and indexes.
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JAEGER
LECOULTRE
Master Eight Days Perpetual SQ
Already
the only perpetual-calendar watch to offer an 8-day power reserve,
this model further highlights its exceptional nature with an entirely
skeletonised movement. The read-off mode of the perpetual-calendar,
power-reserve and day/night indications preserves the transparency
of the watch.
The manufacture decided to treat the balance as the pole in order
to draw the map of an imaginary world criss-crossed by lines similar
to those marking latitudinal and longitudinal lines. The techniques
that are implemented pay tribute to the exceptional nature of the
movement.
The Master Eight Days Perpetual SQ is distinguished by a range of
such complicated indications, that simply arranging them on a normal
dial represents an aesthetic feat in its own right. The watch faces
thus has to carry indications of the hours and minutes, the perpetual
calendar (date, day of the week, month and year), the moon phases,
the day/night display and the power reserve. In a skeletonised version
the various functions are displayed by transparent discs with transferred
indications: numerals for the hours, minutes and date; letters for
the day of the week and the month; and symbols for the moon phases
and the day/night indication. The day/night indication also features
a red security zone that warns the user not to make adjustments
between 9 pm and 3 am so as to avoid damaging the perpetual calendar
mechanism.
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